

               -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
               -=-         Final Fantasy IX          -=-
               -=-         Tetra Master FAQ          -=-
               -=-           Version 0.28            -=-
               -=-           By: Trifthen            -=-
               -=-        trifthen@hotmail.com       -=-
               -=-     http://www.kildosphere.com    -=-
               -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- Provision:
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

  (c.) 2000 Shaun M. Thomas, All Rights Reserved.
  This FAQ is protected by Copyright Law.  All text copied from this
  FAQ can only be done with the consent of Shaun Thomas.  An updated
  version of this FAQ can be obtained at gamefaqs.com, I do not keep
  a copy on my website at this time.

-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- Intro:
-=-=-=-=-=-

Most people I've talked to seem to think Tetra Master is incomprehensible.
annoying, and fruitless.  Well... it is, but that doesn't mean there isn't
some rhyme to the horrible chaos that is Tetra Master.  The fact is, it
does have rhyme and reason, just a bit too random.  Fortunately, all of
this can be overcome, and eventually you'll reach the top collector level.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- Contents:
-=-=-=-=-=-=-

I.   History
II.  Rules
     A.  Requirements
     B.  Getting Cards
     C.  Getting Ready
     D.  The Game
     E.  Card Numbers
     F.  Arrows
     G.  Battles
     H.  Combos
     I.  Winning
     J.  The Point System
     K.  Collector Levels
III. Card Types
     A.  Card Power
     B.  Card Defense
     C.  Physical Cards
     D.  Magic Cards
     E.  Power Cards
     F.  Advanced Cards
IV.  Strategies
     A.  Blocks
     B.  Picking Cards
     C.  General Tips
V.   Card List
VI.  Credits
VII. Contact


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- I. History
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Version 0.28 : November 29, 2000
  -- Added about 1/4 of all cards to card list.  Revised point tallies for
     extra cards.
Version 0.15 : November 27, 2000
  -- Second FAQ.  Added "Getting Cards", "Advanced Cards",
     "The Point System".  Revised text on "Power Cards".  Corrected errors
     in "Collector Levels".
Version 0.1  : November 24, 2000
  -- First FAQ, contains layout, rules, card types, strategies and
     credits.  A card list is the works.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- II. Rules
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-


A. Requirements:
----------------

  -- 2 players
  -- 5 cards for each player


B. Getting Cards:
-----------------

  In order to get those five (or more) cards you'll need to play the game,
  you'll need cards.  There are a few ways to get them:

  1.)  Find them hidden in the towns/dungeons.
  2.)  Get characters to give them to you.
  3.)  Win them in card battles.
  4.)  Get them at the end of a random encounter.

  As a note, the arrows and stats of these cards is not determined until
  you actually own it.  So for cards you find in towns and dungeons, or
  obtain from other characters, you can reset the game until the card
  has the stats you desire.  This works on all cards, even rare ones - 
  so this can help you in getting that top collector level.

C. Getting Ready:
-----------------

  Walk up to a character, and press [] (square) to initiate a card game.
  Not everyone plays, but quite a few do.  Once the card game has been
  initiated, pick five cards and confirm them as you final pick.  Once
  you've done this, the game begins.


D. The Game:
------------

  The game grid looks like this:

                   ###########################
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   ###########################

  This game grid may have anywhere from 0-6 random spaces blocked off
  at the beginning of the game, restricting where cards can be placed.
  A coin is tossed to determine who starts the game.  Whoever starts
  must place a card in one of the grid spaces, and the flow of the
  game turns to the second player.


E. Card Numbers:
----------------

  Cards, being collectible, are given numbers.  There are 100 cards in
  the game, and you can only have 100 with you at any one time.  So,
  if you really wanted to be a master player, you can only have one of
  each card.  That is no easy task.


F. Arrows:
----------

  Each card will usually have a set of arrows in any of 8 directions.
  A sample card with all directions lies below:

                    _______
                    |\ | /|
                    |-   -|
                    |/ | \|
                    -------

  If a card is placed on the grid by itself, nothing happens.  If the
  card is not adjacent to another card, nothing happens.  If no cards
  placed in the grid have arrows facing each other, nothing happens.
  If a card is placed next to a card with arrows pointing to it, as
  shown, nothing happens.

                   card 1 | card 2
                    _____________
                    |\ | /|    /|
                    |-   -|    -|
                    |/ | \|    \|
                    -------------

  Card two was placed second, so nothing happened.  The fifth
  possibility is that the card placed in the grad has an arrow
  pointing to the adjacent card.

                   card 1 | card 2
                    _____________
                    |\ |  |    /|
                    |-    |-   -|
                    |/ |  |    \|
                    -------------

  The player that placed card two now owns card one.  These ownerships
  can change through the game, and whoever ends up owning the most
  cards at the end of the game wins.


G. Battles:
-----------

  There is one final possibility remaining.  If a card is placed next
  to another card, and they both have arrows pointing at each other,
  a battle ensues.  

                   card 1 | card 2
                    _____________
                    |\    |     |
                    |    -|-   -|
                    |/    |  | \|
                    -------------

  The above placement would result in a card battle.  The power of
  each card is compared, and much like a fight in the game, a random
  number is rolled for each card based on this power.  If the card
  has a defense, it will take less damage.  In the end, one card will
  be overwhelmed, and lose the battle.  The card that loses will now
  belong to the player controlling the winning card.


H. Combos:
----------

  Sometimes a card that loses a battle may also point to other cards.
  This is a very dangerous situation, and can lead to those cards
  being lost as well.  For instance, let's assume player 1 owns
  cards one and two, player two puts down card three.

                        1 |  2  |  3
                    ___________________
                    |\    |     |     |
                    |    -|-   -|-    |
                    |/    |  | \|     |
                    -------------------

  We'll assume card three is really powerful, and wipes out card two.
  Player 2 now owns all three cards, because the losing card had an
  arrow pointing to card one.  Avoid this at all costs!  A properly
  placed combo can flip up to eight other cards on a full board.
  Normally cards with a lot of arrows are good due to their great
  defense abilities, but the potential for combos is dire.  We'll talk
  about how to fix this problem later.


I. Winning:
-----------

  Whoever controls the most cards when all cards are on the board wins
  the game.  After winning, the winner gets to pick a card from the
  loser's deck, but only a card that was flipped during the course of
  the game.  If all of the cards are flipped to one player or another,
  the game is called "perfect", and they get to keep all of their
  opponent's cards.  Good if you win, *really* bad if you lose.


J. The Point System:
--------------------

  As you play through the game, you'll win points.  How these points are
  awarded, however seems to be a bit of a complexity.  Points are awarded
  not by your win/loss ratio as it would seem, but on the cards you own
  and how their arrows are arranged.  Here's a quick explanation.

    - One Unique Card                : 15 points
    - Unique card, non-unique arrows : 10 points
    - Extra cards                    : 5 points per card
    - Extra cards, non-unique arros  : 0 points per card
    - X card                         : 1 bonus point
    - A card                         : 2 bonus points

  So, if you have one "A" card, and it has no arrows the same as any other
  card, you'll have 17 points for that card.  Logic would dictate that
  in order to reach the top collector level, you'd need all 100 of your 
  cards to fit this criteria for a maximum of 1700 points.  Ouch.

  So far as arrow configurations are concerned, there are more than a
  hundred, here's how they're broken down:

      Arrows    |   combinations
    -----------------------------
        1       |         8
        2       |        28
        3       |        56
        4       |        70
        5       |        56
        6       |        28
        7       |         8
        8       |         1
    -----------------------------
      Total     |       257

  So, you have a total of 257 total arrow combinations, and you only
  need 100.  Also keep in mind that 163 of those have 4 arrows or more,
  so you don't need to feel defenseless.

  That still doesn't detract from the fact you'll have to have 100 "A"
  level cards, each with a different arrow configuration to reach the
  top collector level, but everything is worth effort, right?


K. Collector Levels:
--------------------

  The game keeps track of all wins, losses, and draws, but they don't
  mean anything to your collector level.  Your collector level is
  determined by the total value of all of your cards as explained above.
  This may seem unfair, but it's how things work.  Collector level is
  awarded by point values, as shows in this table:

      Points     |   Level
  ---------------------------
  0   - 299      :  Beginner
  300 - 399      :  Novice
  400 - 499      :  Player
  500 - 599      :  Senior
  600 - 699      :  Fan
  700 - 1699     :  Leader
  1700           :  Master


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- III.  Card Types
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-


A. Card Power:
--------------

  Each card will have a set stats, arranged to look like: 0P00.
  The first number is the card's attack power in hexadecimal.
  Hexadecimal is just a number from 0-9 and A-F representing the
  numbers 0-15.  The first number is the card's power.  When the
  computer rolls the random attack, it uses this number as a basis
  for how strong the attack will be.  Thus a card identified as
  0P00 will almost always lose to a card that is 1P00.  But remember,
  this is random, the weaker card can still win if it gets a better
  roll.

  One thing they never say in the game guide, or in the game itself
  is that the power of the card is also based on the picture on the
  card.  Or more to the point, the monster the card represents.  As
  in the game, if you pitted a fang against a skeleton, the fang
  would most likely have a stronger attack.  This is taken into
  account by the computer when it calculates attack values.  Be very
  wary of this.  This is one of the reasons most people think the game
  is completely random.  I believe the game was set up to reward
  those who pay attention when they fight monsters in the field, 
  and know which are stronger.  In essence, the game rewards you for
  memorizing the beastiary.

  For those who are wondering how item cards fit into this whole mess,
  I can only assume that they're ranked somehow, and have power/defense
  corresponding to that ranking.  Since they have no attack power or
  hit-points as such.

  One final note.  Cards that defeat other cards in many battles may
  eventually get stronger.  So a 0P00 that wins a few battles may
  make it to a 1P00.


B. Card Defense:
----------------

  Cards have two types of defense, physical and magical.  Like power,
  defense is listed in hexadecimal.  If a card is classified as 
  0P12, 1 is the physical defense, and 2 is the magical defense.  This
  is not the end of the story, however.  Also akin to power, defense
  is based on the monster's actual defense in the game.  The amount
  of damage a card can successfully withstand is also based on the
  monster's actual hit-points with a randomly generated modifier.
  So what does this mean?

  Monster 1: In the game, has 400 hit-points, card has 0P00.
  Monster 2: In the game, has 300 hit-points, card has 0P00.

  So who wins?

  Well, Monster 1 has 4 hit-points for every 3 of Monster 2's.  So,
  say the computer generates the number 20 as the damage monster 1
  deals, and 24 for what Monster 2 deals.

  Monster 1: Deals 20 damage to monster 2.
  Monster 2: Deals 24 damage to monster 1.

  For every 3 hit-points we take from monster 1, subtract 4 from
  Monster 2.  Whoever reaches 0 first, loses.

  Monster 1: 24 21 18 15 12 9 6 3 0
  Monster 2: 20 16 12 8  4  0

  So even though monster 1 took more damage, it still won the battle.

  Defense points on the card can alter how these results come out, but
  I haven't figured out how much things are changed.  In essence,
  they only really help when comparing two cards of the same face.
  So two fang cards, one with 0P10 and one with 0P00, the first card
  will have a greater chance of winning.

  Like Power, defense can increase if a card defends attack often
  enough.  So a 0P00 can become a 0P01 or a 0P10 depending on whether
  it defended many physical or magical attacks.


C. Physical Cards:
------------------

  You probably noticed that I've been listing my examples as 0P00 or
  some variation.  What I was actually assuming is that the cards in
  my examples are physical cards.  Hence they do physical damage
  in their attacks.  A card with P in the middle of its stats is a 
  physical card.

  Like mentioned above, physical abilities are not based on the number
  in the attack power alone.  A 1P00 card can still lose to a 0P00 card
  if the 0P00 card is based on a stronger monster.  Generally, cards
  with higher card numbers are stronger, but you can't count on that.
  For instance, a Fang will almost always beat a Skeleton, even though
  they're both 0p00 cards.

  Confused yet?


D. Magic Cards:
---------------

  Cards with an M in their stats are magic cards.  They deal their damage
  through some kind of magic.  Unfortunately, most magic cards will be
  horribly slaughtered by a physical card.  Hence it's essential to have
  a good balance of each in those chosen for the game.  On the other
  hand, a strong magic card will liquefy a physical card with low magic
  resistance.  Beware!

  As always, magic abilities are not only based on the stats you see on
  the card.  If you have a Flan and a Bomb, the Bomb will usually crush
  the flan without incident, even though they can both be 0M00 cards.

  Again, a good knowledge of the beastiary is your best bet.


E. Power Cards:
---------------

  Last and certainly not least, are power cards.  These can exist in
  any of the card numbers, and are denoted by an X in the card stats.
  You can have an 0X00, but it isn't likely.  Most often, you'll have
  a monster you have many multiples of, and maybe only one of them is
  a power card.  These can be obtained in a couple of ways:

  1.)  Win them.
  2.)  Use a normal card until it turns into one.

  Power cards seem excessive at first.  They appear to have an
  inordinate amount of arrows, and higher stats compared to the other
  cards you may have in your inventory.  But how do they work?

  Defending card     |   Actual Defense
  -------------------------------------
    0P10             |        0
    1M91             |        1
    9M19             |        1

  See a pattern here?  If you play a power card, the lowest of the
  defender's defense powers will determine the type of attack your card
  uses.  Strong physical defense?  Use a magical attack.  Strong magical
  defense?  Use a physical attack.  Keep in mind that the defender still
  gets an attack, so your power card will need to have a good defense
  from the type of card it's attacking.

  As you can imagine, taking a power card can be difficult.  But there
  are a few ways to do so.

  1.)  Take the card on an unprotected corner.
  2.)  Use a powerful card that will overwhelm power card defenses.
  3.)  Use a card with high defense stats.

  Three may not make much sense, but it works.  Remember, power cards
  only gain an upper hand when defense values of the other card are low.
  A card with 0P9A stats would most likely demolish a power card that
  was 2X32.

  At least at the beginning of the game, disks one and two perhaps, save
  them for the last card you play if at all possible.  They can swiftly
  turn the tide of battle, and work wonders when used in combos.


E. Advanced Cards:
------------------

  This was brought to my attention, since I have yet to encounter such
  a beastie, but there is one more type of card that has a huge advantage
  over all other cards.  This is one step above X cards, and instead
  identifies itself with an A.  1A12 for example.  You can get them a
  couple of ways.

  1.)  Win them.
  2.)  Use an X card until it turns into one.

  So what are these wondrous cards, and how do they work?  Like X cards,
  they take the lowest of the defense values, but to add a little spice
  to the mix, they also throw in the attack power.  For example:

  Defending card     |   Actual Defense
  -------------------------------------
    0P12             |        0
    9M09             |        0
    3P9A             |        3

  Yes, that's right.  The lowest number in all of the stats is used
  as the card's defense.  I don't think I have to tell you how horrible
  this can be.

  These must be more rare than power cards, since I haven't seen one
  yet, but I'm assured they exist.  Taking these cards can really only
  be done one of two ways.

  1.)  Take the card on an unprotected corner.
  2.)  Use a card with higher stats in all aspects.

  If you want to take a 2A33, you'll need at least a 3P33 for equal
  footing, probably higher to be on the safe side.  If the computer
  plays one of these cards, take it!  Do what ever you can to make
  that card yours.  If you don't get it the first time, rematch until
  you do.  These cards will most definitely complete your arsenal.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- IV.  Strategies
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

  Winning Tetra Master is usually easy at the beginning of the game,
  but as it goes on, you'll find yourself frequently outclassed by
  players with more powerful cards and more opportune arrow placement.
  Be careful!


A. Blocks:
----------

  Remember that the game can start with anywhere from 0-6 squares
  blocked from play.  These sometimes create spots where one or
  two cards can be placed in complete immunity.  Use these first!
  The less cards you leave open to combos, the better.  Try to use
  your weakest cards in these spaces, or cards that have arrows 
  that wouldn't work well in the board layout.  These cards you
  would have lost have suddenly turned into cards you'll keep.

  Blocks can also be used as strongholds.  Sometimes there is only
  one way to attack cards behind certain blocks.  You can block combos
  and other nefarious attacks by putting a card here that has no
  arrows in the area that can be attacked.  If you stack two or three
  more cards behind this defender, you may lose the defender, but the
  other two are 100% safe.  For example.

                   #-------------------
                   #|#####|#####|#####|
                   #|#####|#####|#####|
                   #|#####|#####|#####|
                   #-------------------------
                   #|\   /|     |     |#####|
                   #|    -|-    |    -|#####|
                   #|     |  | \|  | \|#####|
                   #-------------------------
                   ###########################

  Though this doesn't happen often, there are similar opportunities
  of which you can take advantage.


B. Picking Cards:
-----------------

  Try to play four-corners as much as you can.  By that, I mean pick
  cars that have arrows in one of the following patterns.

                  -------  -------  -------  -------
                  |     |  |     |  |  | /|  |\ |  |
                  |    -|  |-    |  |    -|  |-    |
                  |  | \|  |/ |  |  |     |  |     |
                  -------  -------  -------  -------

  Why?  Because if the cards are strong enough, they'll hold the corner
  you put them in.  You don't want to place a card that'll be taken
  without a fight unless you're setting up combos.  These cards make
  great first moves.  I suggest at least two of these, in case a block
  ruins one of your corners.

  Next you'll want at least one card that can clear the board in your
  favor.  This is fairly simple, just pick a card with as many arrows
  and high stats as you can manage.  In most cases, this will be your
  last card, and will activate as many combos as possible.  Power cards
  work very will here.  You should only need one of these.

  Finally, you'll want two wall cards.  Any of these patterns are
  usable:

                  -------  -------  -------  -------
                  |     |  |\    |  |\ | /|  |    /|
                  |     |  |-    |  |     |  |    -|
                  |/ | \|  |/    |  |     |  |    \|
                  -------  -------  -------  -------

  These are mostly good at protecting other cards from combos.  They'll
  be the cards you play in the middle of the game to set up combos or
  protect cards you've just won from being taken away.

  Remember, you can add as many arrows as you wish to these examples,
  but I strongly advise against taking arrows away unless you have a
  good combo in mind.  Cards with less than three continuous arrows
  are almost defenseless unless protected by blocks, and you can't
  count on whether or not the computer will even use blocks.

  Cards that only protect one side are perfect for combos, and they
  can block access to other cards.  Use them in the right place, and
  the best the computer can do is take the card you used, leaving the
  rest under your control.


C. General Tips:
----------------

  At all costs, avoid capturing cards in corners with a card containing
  a lot of arrows until the end of the game.  Take the following
  example, you just took all of your opponent's cards with the card
  marked with a *.  Four cards are suddenly yours, and the card that
  battled was very powerful, and not likely to cause a combo later.
  But your opponent had a power card (marked by an X) and even though
  it only had one arrow, it turned your card into instant puree.

                   ###########################
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #|     |     |     |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|     |#####|     |#####|#
                   #|     |#####|  X  |#####|#
                   #|     |#####|  |  |#####|#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|\    |#####|  |  |\    |#
                   #|    -|#####|- * -|-    |#
                   #|/    |#####|/ | \|  |  |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   #|  | /|\ |  |     |\ |  |#
                   #|    -|-    |-   -|-    |#
                   #|     |     |  |  |     |#
                   #-------------------------#
                   ###########################

  Would you look at that?  You've now lost four cards, and there is
  no way you can get them back.  Even if you flip the card the computer
  used to cause the combo, you'll still probably lose.  When not paying
  attention, I've lost up to six cards this way, with no way to get
  any of them back.  In a worst case scenario, up to eight cards can
  be lost in a combo, and with that many cards on the board, openings
  are slim, and those cards may be lost forever.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- V.  Card List
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

  Until someone gives me some help here, the only cards in this table are
  ones that I've found myself.  The type listed is the initial type the card
  has when first obtained.  It may change to X or A later.

  Num | Card Name      | Type        Num | Card Name      | Type
  ----------------------------  -=-  ----------------------------
  1   | Goblin         | P      -=-  51  |                |
  2   | Fang           | P      -=-  52  |                |
  3   | Skeleton       | P      -=-  53  |                |
  4   | Flan           | M      -=-  54  |                |
  5   | Zaghnol        | P      -=-  55  |                |
  6   | Lizardman      | P      -=-  56  |                |
  7   | Zombie         | P      -=-  57  |                |
  8   | Bomb           | M      -=-  58  |                |
  9   | Ironite        | P      -=-  59  |                |
  10  | Sahagin        | P      -=-  60  |                |
  11  | Yeti           | M      -=-  61  |                |
  12  | Mimic          | M      -=-  62  |                |
  13  | Wyerd          | M      -=-  63  |                |
  14  | Mandragora     | M      -=-  64  |                |
  15  | Crawler        | P      -=-  65  |                |
  16  | S. Scorpion    | P      -=-  66  |                |
  17  | Nymph          | M      -=-  67  |                |
  18  | Sand Golom     | P      -=-  68  |                |
  19  | Zuu            | P      -=-  69  |                |
  20  | Dragonfly      | P      -=-  70  |                |
  21  |                |        -=-  71  |                |
  22  |                |        -=-  72  |                |
  23  | Antlion        | P      -=-  73  |                |
  24  | Cactuar        | P      -=-  74  |                |
  25  |                |        -=-  75  |                |
  26  |                |        -=-  76  |                |
  27  |                |        -=-  77  |                |
  28  |                |        -=-  78  |                |
  29  |                |        -=-  79  |                |
  30  |                |        -=-  80  | Mythril Sword  | P
  31  |                |        -=-  81  |                |
  32  |                |        -=-  82  |                |
  33  |                |        -=-  83  |                |
  34  |                |        -=-  84  |                |
  35  |                |        -=-  85  |                |
  36  |                |        -=-  86  |                |
  37  |                |        -=-  87  |                |
  38  |                |        -=-  88  |                |
  39  |                |        -=-  89  |                |
  40  |                |        -=-  90  |                |
  41  |                |        -=-  91  |                |
  42  |                |        -=-  92  | Frog           | P
  43  |                |        -=-  93  |                |
  44  |                |        -=-  94  |                |
  45  |                |        -=-  95  | Lindblum       | P
  46  |                |        -=-  96  |                |
  47  |                |        -=-  97  |                |
  48  |                |        -=-  98  |                |
  49  |                |        -=-  99  |                |
  50  |                |        -=-  100 |                |
  ----------------------------  -=-  ----------------------------

  Each card is awarded 0.005 points total in this FAQ, so take number of
  cards, multiply by 0.005 and round up, and that's how much of the FAQ
  version is based on the card listing.


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- VI.  Credits
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

  -- I'd like to thank Drew Cosner of thegia.com for this anecdote:

     "Anyway, here it is: how the hell are you supposed to play
      Tetra Masters in FFIX? As far as I can tell, you place your
      cards on the board at random and your opponent randomly
      puts his cards down causing random cards to flip over at
      random, leading to the random card battle which is apparently
      won completely at random. In the end, one of you wins.
      At random."
                                          -- Drew Cosner.

  -- Big thanks to Ferdinand Pelayo for setting me straight on the point
     system and pointing out I needed a section on obtaining cards.

  -- A big hand to Templeton for telling me about "A" cards, of
     which I have yet to encounter, and the note about beating "X" cards.

  -- Thanks to the entire Internet for telling me that cards can upgrade
     into "X" or "A" cards.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-=- VI.  Contact
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

  If you want to add anything to this FAQ, either to change something
  I got wrong, or help me with the card list, feel free to use the
  contact information below.

  Trifthen
  -----------------------------------------
  Public Email : trifthen@hotmail.com
  AIM          : trifthen
  ICQ ID       : 13671332
  ICQ Nick     : trifthen
  Website      : http://www.kildosphere.com


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-=-                               The End                               -=-
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